There are many ridges and rocky faces in Lochaber that are beyond
the realm of the casual hill walker; exposed ridges, rocky steps
and easy rock climbs that don’t always require a rope but
demand a hands-on approach. Scrambling on broken and rocky ground
with simple climbing skills and a good head for heights lets us
explore the more dramatic faces of the hills.
Scrambling will test your skills of movement on rock, placing
your feet, finding handholds and using your balance to climb fluidly
and confidently. When scrambling it is possible to climb more continuously
than when pitched climbing, giving a great sense of freedom and
making it a good option on colder, wetter days!
On these routes you may need the extra security of a rope. The
decision of when to use a rope will be made considering the seriousness
and technical difficulty of the route relative to the experience
and ability of the scrambler. It is always worth carrying a rope
with a few slings and karabiners, just in case.
Suggested Scrambling Routes
• Carn Mor Dearg Arête – a very simple scramble
but with continuously exposed rock steps, the CMD Arête is
one of the best routes to climb Ben Nevis. Starting from Torlundy
North Face car park or in Glen Nevis, the route will take about
10 hours, climbs two munros and gives spectacular views of the
N Face of Ben Nevis.
• Ledge Route – after the snow has melted out of Number Five
Gully this scramble follows easy ledges cutting through the most
dramatic piece of rock on Ben Nevis, Carn Dearg Buttress. The route
then follows the narrow and exposed ridge to the summit plateau
from which the summit is easily reached. A great route up Ben Nevis
on its own and even better as a start to the CMD Arête in
reverse.
• Forcan Ridge – dropping down from The Saddle into Glen Shiel,
The Forcan Ridge is a brilliant scramble that is quickly approached
by a good stalkers path. The best climbing is right on the crest
of the ridge but easier options are always available just down
to the side.
• Aonach Eagach – the ridge forming the N side of Glen Coe
is justifiably famous as one of the best days out in Scotland.
Traversing the Aonach Eagach is a committing undertaking that is
extremely exposed for much of the way but never overly technical.
The crest of the ridge usually provides the best scrambling and
carrying on towards the Pap of Glen Coe is the best option to descend.
• Curved Ridge – Buachaille Etive Mor stands proud at the heads
of Glen Coe and Glen Etive, looking over the vast Rannoch Moor.
Its many rocky ridges give superb scrambling on positive rhyolite
holds. Curved Ridge is difficult to locate from underneath, especially
in the mist, but once established the route gives delightful, easy
climbing overlooked by Rannoch Wall and Crowberry Tower.
• Pinnacle Ridge – crossing the Corran narrows on the ferry
gives the feeling of entering another land! Garbh Bheinn (Rough
Mountain) lives up to its name and the climbing on this difficult
route is on brilliant rough gneiss. Although not a munro, this
scramble is a tough day out!
• Tower Ridge – the classic of Ben Nevis, this is a grade Difficult
rock climb and all but the most confident climbers will use a rope.
It is a long and dramatic route with its hardest and most exposed
section being right at the top, The Great Tower and Tower Gap.
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