Climbing in Lochaber
Lochaber contains the biggest and best crags in the UK offering a huge variety of climbing. It is dominated by Ben Nevis with its ridges and faces of Alpine proportion. “The Ben” is not only home to some of the country’s longest rock climbs of all standards but also offers winter climbing of international importance. The area contains:

• Ben Nevis, the best and most reliable winter climbing of all grades
• Glen Nevis, one of the best roadside rock climbing venues
• Glen Coe, containing the highest standard mountain routes
• Ardnamurchan, with its perfect rock in wild and remote settings
• Aonach Mor, the most accessible winter crag in Britain
• Perfect granite slab climbing in Glen Etive
• Remote, mid-grade winter climbs in the Mamores and Grey Corries

The weather plays a very important role in climbing in Lochaber. The rock climbing and scrambling season starts in May, which is often the sunniest and driest month of the year. The valley crags dry out first and Glen Etive and Ardnamurchan are good options. June can also bring superb weather when the mountain crags in Glen Coe, on Ben Nevis and Garbh Bheinn of Ardgour have dried out and give outstanding climbing. July and August are often slightly wetter so head for the quick drying crags in Glen Nevis or further east to Ardverikie. As the colours of the hills start to change in September you need to be flexible and grab the odd day of autumn warmth and splendour. Scrambling on long rocky ridges such as the Aonach Eagach can give some of the best days of the year.

The first falls of snow arrive at the end of September and good winter climbing conditions can develop during November. There are many rocky mixed climbs on Ben Nevis and in the Grey Corries that just require a good freeze, some snow and rime to be in good condition. December sees ice start to form in drainage lines and low level waterfalls can freeze, such as Steall Falls. January can be very stormy, putting down the foundations for the rest of the winter. By February, possibly the most reliable month for winter climbing, hundreds of winter lines are being climbed all over Lochaber. Through March and into April the world renowned face routes of Ben Nevis gradually form through repeated formation of rime ice followed by thaw–freeze cycles that transform it into plastic ice. Spring ice climbing on Ben Nevis is unique and not to be missed.

Whatever the weather, remember it can change in an instant. Climbers need to be prepared for poor weather even on the sunniest days. Snow lies on Ben Nevis right through the summer and fresh snowfall is not uncommon in August on the highest hills. But it is this changeability in the weather that makes the climbing in Lochaber so appealing. Without the winter storms the ice climbs would not form. The greyest of mornings in the glen can keep their secrets to all but those on the highest tops, standing above the clouds. Glimpses of gullies and glens as the clouds break and reform give a more magical impression than the sunniest of days. The satisfaction of choosing the right climb for the right day is great and the lessons learnt in making the wrong decision are invaluable!